Van Materials recommendations

As you shop for materials for a build, you’ll quickly see there are endless possibilities. It’s not as simple as buying random wood and screws—within each category, there are dozens, if not hundreds, of options.

The good news? By the time you reach this stage, many of the hardest decisions—like colors, design style, and layout—are behind you. Those choices can be non-linear and emotionally driven, but material selection can often be approached more logically.

Three key factors drive material choice:

• Aesthetics • Cost
• Durability

All three factors—cost, aesthetics, and durability—are always in play, but their priority shifts based on your goal. Van builds can range from $6,000 to $60,000+, but a quality, visually appealing van can be built for around $15,000 to $20,000.

When I started with a tight budget under $10,000, keeping costs low was my priority. I chose standard birch plywood for cabinetry instead of pricier Baltic Birch and opted for peel-and-stick tiles—they were affordable and looked decent, even if they lacked the durability of real tile.

In contrast, with my van build “Luna,” my objective was to create art on wheels. Cost took a back seat, durability was a consideration, but aesthetics drove the entire project. I wasn’t afraid to experiment with new materials that might not have been the most robust. Of course, I made sure they met a basic standard of durability, but focusing solely on durability would have limited my creative vision.

Streamlined van building companies often prioritize durability, with cost and aesthetics as secondary concerns. This results in solid builds but often comes with less attention to detail, more restrictions, and subtle aesthetic sacrifices like exposed fasteners.

Since most potential buyers will be drawn to the visual appeal of your van, your goal should be to maximize aesthetics while adhering to safe building practices and keeping expenses in check. Aesthetics create impact!

As they say, the proof is in the pudding—I posted photos of my yellow van “Luna” online before even finishing the plumbing or electrical systems, and I still had offers from interested buyers.

Spend just enough but not too little! You could throw a mattress in the back of a beat-up Chevy van for $5k total, and voila!... You have a camper! But you haven’t created a dime of value and won’t make money. At the same time, remember that more expensive materials don’t always translate to a higher selling price. It’s a delicate balance!

Think of it like real estate—installing marble countertops and hardwood Mahogany floors in a run-down trailer park unit doesn’t make sense. You’d spend tens of thousands of dollars on materials, while the unit would only sell for a couple thousand more. Likewise, you wouldn’t install laminate counters and cheap carpets in a mansion, as buyers in this market tend to hold more luxurious preferences. When it comes to the van market, it doesn’t make sense to incorporate top-of-the-line components unless you are building a top-of-the- line rig that you plan to sell in the uppermost echelon of the market. To optimize your investment, material costs must remain in proportion with the desired outcome of your project.

Knowing where to save and where to invest in quality takes time and experience. I’ve been through it all, so I’ll guide you through selecting the best materials for every step of your conversion and share my go-to suppliers for

the best value.

CONSTRUCTION SUPPLIES

General building supplies are used to create the structure in the van: wood, insulation, sound deadening, fasteners, hardware, plastics, stones, paints, finishes, and more.

Most general building supplies can be bought at home improvement stores like Home Depot, Lowe’s, or Menards. You’ll be taking countless trips to buy more wood, screws, and tools until you have your builds mastered, so stick to one main store, and you’ll grow to know the floor plan like the back of your hand. I’ve spent hours in Home Depot just staring, conceptualizing, and brainstorming different solutions to problems. For more niche products, like cabinet hardware, I typically resort to Amazon.

Plywood

Wood is the backbone of your build—it creates structure and dimension, allowing you to turn what’s in your head into something tangible. I use wood for everything structural in my van, from framing and cabinetry to ceilings, walls, specialty trim, and accent pieces. With that said, not all plywood is equal. I buy most of my plywood at specialty hardwood stores and some generic varieties at Home Depot.

Baltic Birch

Baltic birch has been the gold standard for van cabinetry due to its strength and durability—qualities essential for withstanding the constant vibrations and temperature fluctuations of van life. Unlike generic birch plywood, Baltic birch uses layers of solid birch veneers with no gaps or weak spots. This ensures screws hold firmly, joinery is cleaner, and the wood is less prone to warping.

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Plus, its smooth, layered edges give it a polished look. It’s also mold and mildew-resistant—qualities so valuable that it’s even used in yachts. However, supply chain disruptions have limited availability in the U.S., leading to alternative plywoods that don’t quite match its strength. Typically, Baltic birch is only found in specialty hardwood stores, but make sure to call around for pricing—it varies greatly between locations!

Birch

Birch plywood found at big-box stores like Home Depot differs from Baltic birch. Its core often includes softer woods, which can lead to gaps and inconsistencies between layers. As a result, it’s not as strong or stable, and screws will not hold as firmly. However, it’s more accessible and affordable, making it a suitable choice for non-structural uses or budget-friendly projects. Just don’t expect the same level of strength, durability, or aesthetic appeal as Baltic birch.

CDX

Then, there are low-grade plywoods like CDX. CDX plywood is a cheap construction plywood commonly used for things that don’t show, like subfloors. It’s made with exterior-grade adhesives, offering some moisture resistance, but its rough surface and heavier weight make it less ideal for applications where a smooth finish or lighter materials are preferred.

Bendy Plywood

Bendy ply is perhaps the coolest and most fascinating wood I’ve encountered. This plywood is exactly what it sounds like—bendable plywood. It comes with several different names: Bendy ply, wiggle wood, and wacky wood, to name a few. I’ve used it in both 1/8-inch and 3/8-inch thicknesses, and it has changed my life. You can bend it nearly into a complete circle, and it is perfect for rounded window frames, trim pieces, and funky shapes. Bendy ply is at the core of my “secret” method for my yellow van build “Luna,” paired with some other tips that I’ll delve into under Building Breakdown. I used a bendy ply to create the curve between my wall and ceiling, as well as my circular niches, window frames, and bench backings. Fair warning: this stuff is hard to locate.

FLIPPING FREEDOM Your best shot will be calling your local hardwood suppliers and asking if they

stock it.

Framing: I usually choose birch for framing my vans because it costs less than Baltic Birch and is hidden, so aesthetics aren’t a concern. Since most screws are driven perpendicularly, end grain strength is less critical. However, I avoid using materials like CDX, as it’s more prone to chipping, especially when adding pocket holes.

Cabinetry: For all cabinetry boxes in your van, 1⁄2 inch Baltic birch is ideal. You’ll need around ten to fifteen 4-foot by 8-foot sheets for a build, depending on the size and layout of the van. Baltic birch is expensive, but it’s worth it. Cabinet quality shows—it has an unforgiving impact on the overall impression of your build. I’ve built vans without using Baltic birch before and could never go back—Baltic saves so much time, as it rarely splinters, and its end grain looks so much more professional than other options. Also, considering that the contents of your van endure a rolling earthquake each time you hit the road, the added strength to joinery is a bonus.

Cabinet faces: For cabinet faces, I typically use 3⁄4 inch Baltic with a finish of my choice. While 1⁄2 Baltic is a bit lighter weight, I’ve found that it can warp over time if not secured down. The 3⁄4-inch thickness provides better durability and a more robust appearance, positively impacting the overall aesthetic of the build.

Subfloor: If your van came with a factory subfloor or wood substrate on top of the metal floor, clean under it, screw it down, and build on top of it. Sometimes, the van you buy will not have that, though. In this case, 1⁄2 inch CDX plywood is a great option to create a subfloor from scratch.

Walls and ceilings: My go-to for walls and ceilings has been 1⁄4 Baltic birch with a nice finish. Personally, I find this to be the easiest, most adaptable, and timeless option. It’s also strong enough to drive screws through, adding mounting points for cabinetry. When the panel does not show or bear weight, you can save money and weight by using generic birch 1⁄4 inch underlayment from Home Depot.

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Slat walls: For slatted walls and ceilings, you can use a black painted 1⁄4 inch sheet of birch underlayment with a select width of planks laid on top. Cut these planks from any variety of wood that fits your color scheme, including Baltic birch. I find 1⁄4 inch thick and 1 1⁄2 to 2 inches wide to be an ideal size for slats.

Door panels: Use 1⁄4 birch underlayment from Home Depot wrapped in upholstery foam and fabric.

Rounded shapes: There are a few ways to create rounded shapes in a van build. The simplest method is using bendy plywood, which works well for rounded trim, ceiling curves, and other non-structural applications. For more robust needs, you’ll likely want to kerf bend Baltic plywood (which I’ll cover in the next chapter) or stack rounded cuts of Baltic plywood on top of each other.

Other Woods

Solid Wood

Solid wood comes in both hardwood and softwood species and is excellent for accents, slats, drawer pulls, half rounds, switch panels, and trim pieces. Generally, the harder the wood, the more expensive it will cost, the more weight it will add to your van and the more challenging it will be to work with. For example, pine is cheap, light, and easy to work with whereas White Oak is expensive, heavy, and prone to cracking if you don’t prepare it correctly.

Use of solid wood should come down to aesthetic preference. Less common species often need to be sourced from specialty hardwood stores, where planks are typically rough-cut. This means you’ll need to plane and joint them before use—extra work that’s probably not worth it for a first-time or budget build. For simplicity, I suggest sticking to pre-milled planks from mainstream suppliers.

Tongue-and-groove and Shiplap

While not my favorite materials, tongue-and-groove (T&G) planks and shiplap are commonly used in van builds, typically pine or cedar. Although these softer woods can ding easily, many builders opt for them to achieve a rustic look. You

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you decide to go this route, you’ll find more tips and advice in Chapter 13.

V eneer

Veneer is an ultra-thin sheet of real wood that adheres to the surface of plywood to emulate the look of solid wood. Coming in nearly every wood variety, veneer is sold in roles and typically must be purchased online or from a hardwoods supplier. Ideally, a veneer is paired with a matching edge banding, an ultra-thin sheet of wood that is specifically cut to cover the end grain of the plywood. It can be expensive, at around $70+ for a 4-foot by 8- foot sheet. When incorporated correctly, veneer can add an amazing touch to cabinetry . Be careful, though, as it can quickly eat into potential profit if you’re not diligent with spending.

Trim: You’ll need to use various types of trim throughout the van to cover up any gaps or untidied edges. Though it’s more expensive, I suggest using wooden trim over PVC or MDF. PVC is hard to miter cleanly and can squeak when driving. MDF is prone to moisture expansion and water damage. To have more customization, you can also make your own trim from solid wood run through the table saw. If you need to create a large or multi-plane trim piece, use Baltic birch plywood.

Custom drawer faces: If you decide to use specialty drawer fronts, such as Shaker- style, for your cabinets, I strongly recommend ordering your cabinet faces online from a custom cabinet face provider. It is possible to build them yourself, but I’ve done it, and it’s just not worth the time. A complete order of custom cabinet faces will run you $400 to $600. On the other hand, supplies to make them yourself may cost around $300, but it will take countless hours and will not look nearly as professional. Some components of a build are simply worth spending the money on, and this is one of them.

Countertops: For countertops, you can use pretty much anything that suits your aesthetic desires—just be mindful of weight and durability. Some options I’ve seen are Butcher block, 3⁄4 inch laminated Baltic birch plywood, real stone, and Bamboo plywood. The decision completely comes down to your design

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preferences and objective; just make sure the material is waterproof and durable.

Keep in mind that new trends will be forever emerging and changing—make a judgment call on whether to switch up your style. Jump on trends early, and don’t be afraid to be bold. However, ensure your style isn’t too outlandish to the point where you begin alienating most of the market.

In summary:

Cabinets: 1⁄2 inch Baltic birch
Cabinet faces: 3⁄4 inch Baltic birch or ordered from a specialty supplier
Framing: 1⁄2 inch birch
Subfloor: 1⁄2 inch CDX
High visibility wall: 1⁄4 inch Baltic birch
Ceiling: 1⁄4 inch Baltic birch
Concealed or low visibility wall: 1⁄4 inch birch
Door panels: 1⁄4 birch underlayment
Counter: Butcher block, real stone, 3⁄4 inch laminated Baltic birch
plywood, and Bamboo plywood
Accents, trim, slats, half rounds, switch plates: solid woods, veneer, edge
banding
Insulation and soundproofing
Insulation
Insulation is measured in R-value per inch of thickness, which marks how well a type of insulation can keep heat from leaving a space. A higher R-value means better climate control but typically a higher price point as well.
In conventional homes, bats of fiberglass insulation with R-values of about R- 15 to R-20 are the go-to choices. Do not use this stuff in a van—it is a particulate insulation composed of particles that shed off over time and irritate the lungs. Instead, there are a handful of better options to choose from when insulating a van—the most popular are spray foam, foam board, Havelock wool, Thinsulate, and Reflectix.
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FLIPPING FREEDOM Walls, ceilings, and floors: I’ve used each type of insulation before and can confidently say that for any build, my go-to would be Thinsulate for cleanliness and ease of installation. While foam board with spray foam may be the cheapest option, it’s an absolute mess to deal with. Additionally, it’s inconsistent, toxic, and only marginally cheaper than Thinsulate. Only use this if on a tight budget. Havelock wool is great performance-wise but also a headache to install. Reflectix is only effective where one side is directly exposed to the sun. Thinsulate, on the other hand, is highly effective and has a clean, streamlined installation—simply stick it on with 3m 90 contact spray and voila.

Order through Amazon.

Window covers: Reflectix is what I would choose for removable window covers. This metallic insulation comes in rolls, which can be purchased at most major home improvement stores, and is effective through reflection of sun or heat source.

Sound Deadening

Sound deadening is a must. Without sound deadening, the van’s interior can become a cacophony of road noise and rattling, making every drive feel like a chore. You’ll be surprised at how much of a difference just one small piece of sound deadening on each panel makes. Oftentimes, vans even come with factory sound deadening—this will be a small, foam-like sheet adhering to the factory metal body panels. In either case, one box of Kilmat should be enough to hit all the empty panels in your van—you can buy it on Amazon.

Mounting

Almost everything in the van can be assembled with one or multiple of these five methods of joinery: pocket holes, screws, nuts & bolts, adhesive, or finish nails.

Adhesives

The following are my go-to products for applications that require adhesive or sealant:

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Product

Description

Application

Gorilla Glue Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive

A versatile, flexible, heavy-duty adhesive designed for strong, long-lasting bonds. Comes in a tube, must be applied with a caulk gun.

Use anywhere that thick adhesive is needed, under wall and ceiling panel seams, laying tile, metal, trim, etc.

Titebond Ultimate Wood Glue

A high-strength, waterproof wood glue ideal for interior and exterior woodworking projects.

For flush wood to wood applications like cabinetry joints.

JB Weld 2-Part Epoxy

A durable, two- component epoxy that creates a strong, permanent bond.

Use on plastics, light strips, small trim pieces, or any small surface areas that need a strong permanent hold.

Dicor Lap Sealant Silicone Caulk

3m 90 Contact Spray Adhesive

Sikaflex P2G (Primerless to glass)

A flexible, weather- resistant sealant.
A flexible, waterproof sealant used for sealing joints and gaps. High-strength, fast- drying spray on adhesive.

A high-performance, one-component polyurethane adhesive

Use on roof edges, vents, and other exterior components.
Use on sink rim, stove rim, shower seams, kitchen counter seam, trim gaps.

Fabrics, foams, laminates, plastics, veneers.

Use for adhering windows to the exterior of the van.

Weldwood Contact Cement

A strong, fast-drying adhesive designed for bonding laminates, veneers, plywood, and other materials.

Use for bonding laminates and veneers to plywood.

Note: Always check that the adhesive or sealant label specifies compatibility with the material you’ll be using it on.

Tip: Whenever you apply an adhesive or sealant to metal in a van or any other hard, non-porous surface (like metal or laminate), make sure to first clean the surface with rubbing alcohol to ensure proper adhesion.

Concealing seams & wood filling

A huge quandary in van building is how to conceal seams where one piece of wood meets another. Because of the constant vibration and large temperature

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proper cure time.

Both Bondo wood filler and automotive two-part fillers are go-tos for repairing defects in the wood, as well as plugging fastener holes. It’s simply so much stronger than traditional wood filler and is better equipped to hold up in a van application. For larger defects, always pair with fiberglass resin. I will delve further into the process of Building Breakdown.

Fasteners

Fasteners come in so many SKUs it will make your head spin. Between length, thickness, shape, and type of metal, you could spend hours debating which to buy. For some applications, it matters, but for others, it’s total preference. Here are some rules of thumb:

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Length

Determined by desired depth.
When fastening in through the metal frame of the van, go at least 1⁄2 inch past the metal but not too far to damage the external body.
On wood to wood, the deeper the better, but make sure not to go too far to protrude out the back.
Make sure the threads extend long enough on the screw to grab into all materials.

Thickness Determined by desired strength—thicker is typically stronger. For small, lightweight applications, small is fine.

For heavy duty or structural applications like cabinetry, I usually use #12.

Head type

Determined by aesthetic preference and application.
When seeking to countersink and hide the screw, use tapered head.
When seeking to leave screw exposed, or fasten a removable panel, I use pan or hex head.
For pocket hole joinery, use specialty pan head pocket hole screws.

Type of metal

Determined by desired strength, potential exposure to moisture, and type of materials being fastened.
On exterior, stainless steel is optimal for corrosion resistance.
When fastening wood to metal inside, use steel or zinc.

With that said, this is a breakdown of what you can expect and a fair starting point for an initial shopping haul:

500-pack 1-inch fine-thread pocket hole screws (for joining 1⁄2-inch plywood).
250-pack 11⁄4-inch coarse-thread pocket hole screws (for joining thicker pieces of wood like 3⁄4-inch plywood).
100-pack #6 x 1⁄2-inch wood screws (for very small attachments where a longer screw would penetrate too far).
100-pack #6 x 3⁄4-inch wood screws (for attaching thin trim pieces or securing lightweight parts).
500-pack #8 x 1-inch wood screws (general use for attaching lighter wood pieces).
500-pack #10 x 1-inch sheetrock screws (for attached framing to the metal of the van).
250-pack #12 x 21⁄2-inch steel screws (for heavier-duty applications like securing cabinetry).

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Cabinetry Hardware

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Hardware

Hardware consists of drawer pulls, drawer slides, hinges, drawer clips, and some miscellaneous components. I buy all of these in bulk on Amazon to save time and money.

Cabinet handles: Drawer and cabinet pulls are entirely based on aesthetic preference. For drawer slides, I opt for side-mount ball-bearing full-extension slides. They’re easy to install and handle up to 100 pounds of weight. For more robust applications, like a slide out bed, you can buy heavy-duty slides weight- rated for up to 500 pounds. Make sure to choose a length that fits the interior depth of your cabinets—they can always be a couple inches shorter.

Hinges: For hinges, concealed insets are standard—these require a large, deep mounting hole and are invisible when the cabinet is shut. They come in different overlays depending on cabinet type and aesthetic preference. For example, a full overlay hinge leaves about a 1/8 inch gap between faces, while an 1⁄2 inch overlay hinge may leave a much wider gap.

With that said, if your cabinet faces are less than 3⁄4 inch thick, you’ll want to use concealed non-mortise hinge, which doesn’t require a large hole for mounting. For lifting bench tops and utility area applications, piano hinges are a great option.

Struts: All overhead cabinet doors should have struts to keep them held open when lifted. I’ve found that 10-inch, 100N gas struts work well for most applications, creating a sense of luxury and an additional selling point.

Latches: Don’t forget to put latches under drawers to keep them from slamming open when driving. My go-to are the black, clip in 10-pound RV latches. Magnetic locks can also be used when the drawer is exceptionally heavy or where the clip latches will not fit.

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When choosing flooring and cabinetry finish materials, the major considerations, again, are aesthetics, cost, and long-term durability. Often, inorganic materials like vinyl and laminate offer the perfect mix of these three factors.

Flooring

Main flooring: For flooring, I opt for tongue-and-groove luxury vinyl plank, as there are endless options to choose from. It’s naturally beautiful, easily replaceable, durable, lightweight, and has sound-deadening qualities. Look for thick planks that have a built-in underlayment. Make sure to not confuse vinyl plank with laminate plank (a wood-based composite flooring) that is much more likely to swell and give you issues down the road.

Note: A flooring called Lonseal, a flexible sheet of vinyl that comes in a roll, is rising in popularity. Unaffected by temperature change or moisture, this is probably the most durable option out there. However, it requires a more specialized installation and is more expensive. I prefer vinyl plank for a wider range of aesthetic options and durability when installed correctly.

Utility areas: For utility areas, I usually use a rubber coin mat to line the walls and floors, which can be purchased in rolls on Amazon. This provides a sleek, utilitarian aesthetic.

Laminate

Sheet laminate is a heavy-duty plastic that adheres to plywood with contact cement, creating a durable, waterproof, scratch-resistant surface. Often used on the walls and cabinetry of professional builds, laminate comes in nearly every color imaginable and has a wide variety of price ranges, from $60 a sheet to upwards of $250. While laminate looks professional, its application requires a high skill level and can add a lot of cost to your build. If installed incorrectly, it will bubble, chip, and cause a giant headache. I recommend avoiding sheet laminate until you are well-versed in building and/or are looking to build an ultra-high-end conversion.

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Shower and Tile

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Tile

One of the most common questions I receive is whether the tile in my shower will crack. I can confidently say that is the least of my concerns. When you choose the correct tile and install it correctly, it is more durable than any faux option.

In the days when white subway tile was all the rave in vans, I used peel-and- stick faux tiles from Amazon. They were easy to install, lightweight, and looked great in photos but somewhat tacky in person. I wouldn’t do this now because it cheapens the look of the whole build. Since the only trend that never fades is one that’s harmonious with nature, my focus has shifted toward more natural materials for accent and shower tiles.

In my build, Luna, I used real tile for the first time in a van, which took the feel of the space to a whole new level. The objective behind Luna was to create an eye-catching art piece, not to make a profit, and thus, I had no budget limitations. I spent around $2,000 on the highest quality tile, pebble flooring, adhesives, and grout, adding probably 300+ pounds of weight. In my case, it was worth it—but if my objective was to build a “Sweet spot” van, I would have opted for a more cost-effective alternative, which would simply mean less expensive tile. If you choose to use tile in a van, my recommendations are as follows:

Choose a small, thin tile, as it’s best to keep weight at a minimum. Additionally, the smaller tile molds better to the contour of the van wall, which reduces tension from flexing. I wouldn’t go bigger than 12 inches in height.
Adhere the tiles with 1⁄4 inch troweled Gorilla glue construction adhesive. This flexible adhesive is 100% waterproof and withstands vibration much better than traditional household tile cement.
Opt for high-quality epoxy grout over premixed. Since this grout is epoxy-reinforced, it is less likely to crack, chip, and fall out over the miles.

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• Make sure to properly space the tiles apart from each other with 1/8 inch+ tile spacers.

An alternative to real tile is Palisade waterproof, grout-free tongue-and-groove vinyl tiles for the walls. These vinyl tiles are easily installed with a heavy-duty construction adhesive and click and lock to seal out water. You can also use sheet acrylic or FRP board for shower walls, but these can be harder to locate and less aesthetically pleasing.

Substrate

When building a shower, it is important to properly prepare the substrate. When trying to keep costs down, I’ve seen many builders use quarter-inch plywood with three or more layers of waterproofing Redgard and edge tape to seal seams. When using real tile in a shower, the proper solution for the substrate is Wedi board, a lightweight, waterproof, rigid foam board reinforced with fiberglass. The board is installed with specialty screws and sealed at the edges with a proprietary construction paste, making it easy to install. Wedi also offers pre-fabricated shower niches, pans, and drain systems. Though it’s a bit pricey, it’s worth it if you’re going to install real tiles. You’ll likely need to buy this from a specialty kitchen and bath store, which will also be able to provide you with everything you need for its construction (adhesives, screws, etc).

My discovery ofWedi board: One day, I was standing in line at Home Depot, about to buy some Kerdi board for a van build, when the guy in front of me kept glancing at me and giggling. I had no idea why. Eventually, he spoke up, and I realized it was because of the Kerdi board I was carrying. He was a contractor and told me about Wedi board. He said it was the easiest thing ever for building a shower, and no taping was required. Naturally, I was skeptical and thought, “If this is so great, why isn’t everyone using it?” It seemed too good to be true. But after looking it up online, I realized it was cheaper, too. So, I put the Kerdi back and went to a specialty bath store. Turns out, Wedi makes everything from wall boards and shower pans to pre-made niches. I felt like a little kid in a candy shop. Wedi board was exactly what I needed, and I’ve been using it ever since. That’s often the case in van building—there are some incredible materials out there, but they’re just flying under the radar because no one has dared to try them yet.

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Specialty Shower Parts

Shower door: If you are incorporating a fixed shower into the build, you will need to buy a shower pan and shower door. For shower doors, Nautilus offers some sleek, self-cleaning, and customizable options.

Shower pan: For a shower pan, the smallest you should go is 24-inch by 32-inch dimensions. RecPro makes some quality, affordable RV-specific shower pans, or you can fabricate your own from Wedi board. In either case, ensure the drain, which should be 1 1⁄2 inches in diameter and extend through the floor, won’t end up over a structural beam under the van.

Finishes

Paints

Paints matter—I learned this firsthand. Paint and primer are not something to skimp out on; you’ll pay the price when you need to fix scuffs and repaint ten times. Higher-quality paint looks better and is more durable. They’re also pennies compared to the overall build cost, a drop in the ocean, but they make a massive impact, so it’s worth it.

Primer: First, I like to use Kilz Premium primer on every wood surface that needs paint. If the color is going to be light, use a white base primer. If it’s going to be dark, use a dark base. This will seal the grain and any knots or stains in the wood. Without primer, these flaws will show through, leaving the wood with an inferior finish.

Paint: The brand of paint doesn’t matter as much as the color and quality. I like to use high-quality acrylic latex paints throughout, which have great coverage, luminance, and strength.

Each sheen of paint has its own purpose. The less shine a paint has, the fewer flaws show; however, the color is less durable and harder to clean. Conversely, the more shine a paint has, the more flaws show, but it is more durable and easier to clean. Not to mention, shine can draw attention to an element or

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space. It’s worth noting, however, that dark paints tend to show imperfections

no matter what, so you should stick to a satin sheen if you decide to paint your cabinets dark.

This chart will help break it down for you:

Sheen Level

Low Shine

Low-Medium Shine Medium Shine

Medium-High Shine High-Shine

Name

Flat/Matte

Eggshell Satin

Semi-gloss Gloss/High-gloss

Ideal For

Hiding wall imperfections; where regular touch-ups are needed; low traffic areas, no cleaning required

For walls in houses, in low-moisture areas

Most interior surfaces in a van; walls that need regular cleaning; scuff resistance required

Trim; moisture-prone areas; cleanability; and scuff resistance

Frequent cleaning required; dramatic glossy look desired

The two sheens you should use in a van build are satin and semi-gloss, as both offer cleanability without showing too many imperfections. The following is a simple key for selecting sheens for different surfaces in your van build:

Light colored cabinets: Semi-gloss
Dark colored cabinets: Satin
Walls: Satin
Trim: Semi-gloss
Underlayment for slatted walls: Satin
Area underneath bed: Satin
Other Finishes
Aside from paint, the most common finishes used in van building are stains and topcoats. Stains and topcoats each come in oil-based and water-based varieties. You can mix a variety of these throughout your van, with consideration to use and aesthetic desires. Since these finishes are not

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details that makes a big difference.

Pre-stain: First, when staining inconsistent or soft woods like pine and poplar, consider using a pre-stain. Pre-stain ensures the stain penetrates the wood evenly. If pre-stain is not used, the wood may absorb the stain differently from area to area, resulting in a splotchy, unattractive appearance. However, pre- stain can mess with the tone of the wood, making it appear warmer. If a warm tone clashes with the overall theme, then you may need to avoid this step entirely .

Stain: Stains, which deliberately change the color of the wood, are relatively easy to deal with, coming in both water and oil-based varieties. I don’t strongly prefer either—just choose a color you like. Word to the wise: stain never shows up on the label as it will on your wood. It’s so important to sample it on your wood before you buy it, or you will be eternally frustrated if you’re anything like me. Bring other color samples from your build, such as a piece of flooring and paint swatch, to make sure everything matches. Home Depot often refuses to sample for you, so buy samplers to test or find a local paint store that’s more accommodating.

Topcoat: Finally, you need to seal and protect the wood with a topcoat. Topcoat has been a constant source of frustration for me when building a van because it changes the tone of the wood. There are four types of topcoats I’ve used in a van:

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Type

Lacquer

Oil
Oil based polyurethane

Water based polyurethane

Pros

Clearer than polyurethane, dries quickly.

Won’t chip or flake, seals the wood effectively.

Typically strongest of all finishes.

Non-yellowing, dries quickly, cleans up easily, pleasant to work with, low VOC.

Cons

High VOC content, yellows wood, weaker than polyurethane, will chip and dent over time.

Doesn’t add much of a finished look, yellows the wood.

High VOC content, yellows wood, will chip and dent over time, takes long to dry.

Not typically as strong as oil-based topcoats.

I try to use water based to topcoat almost every wooden surface in a van. Water-based topcoats are safer to work with, as they don’t emit harmful VOCs as oil-based finishes do. Water-based also leaves the tone and hue of the wood essentially unchanged, so it’s easier to achieve the color you’re aiming for. The downside of water-based is that it’s not as strong and can dent and wear over time.

Oil-based topcoat is usually tougher than water-based. This makes it ideal for surfaces that see high use, like countertops, flooring, and furniture. However, there is a huge problem with oil-based topcoats: they give the wood a warm, yellow tint. Sometimes, this fits the aesthetic of your build; other times, you’ll just have to use water based.

Tip: To ward off warm tones caused by the topcoat, experiment with a whitewash stain under the topcoat. The whitewash will bring an inherently cooler, lighter tone while sealing out oil-based stains or topcoats from penetrating the wood.

With both oil and water-based topcoats, there are also a variety of sheens to choose from. Intuitively, you might think the surface should be as shiny as possible. Don’t fall for it. I learned the hard way. A shiny finish will make your

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a flawed, nicked surface. Satin is typically the best choice for wood topcoats. These details matter!
Plaster and Decorative Paints

Plasters and decorative paints are textured, or visually textured, lime-based substances that can coat large surface areas on a van. They come in a wide range of colors and can greatly impact a space’s feel. There are four types of plasters and decorative paints I have seen used in a van: Roman clay, limewash, Tadelakt emulation plaster “Concretta,” and micro cement.

Roman clay

A proprietary, limestone based, thin plaster sold by Portola paints.
Top coated with a thin coat of proprietary, glaze.
Water resistant, not water proof.
Suitable for walls and ceiling.
Applied with two metal spackle blades.
Slight buildability .
Will not conceal small subsurface imperfections.
Intermediate skill level.

Limewash

A thin, liquid, limestone based paint that produces a visually textured, cloud-like pattern.
Sold by many different brands, each different.
Not waterproof.
Suitable for walls and ceiling.
Applied with a block brush.
No buildability. Will not conceal subsurface imperfections.
Novice skill level.

“Concretta” plaster

Proprietary product from Meoded Paint and Plaster.
Tadelakt emulation, smoother and glossier than microcement,
maintains natural characteristics of lime.
Can be applied over any substrate.
Top coated with a thin coat of waterproof glaze, and waterproof
with four or more coats of topcoat.
Suitable for walls, ceilings, showers, tubs, floors.
Applied with trowel.
Good buildability (Up to 1⁄4 inch thick with multiple coats). Will
conceal subsurface imperfections.
Advanced skill level.

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Microcement

Thin, porous, cement-based coating mixed with polymers and other additives.
More versatile but less authentic looking.
Water proof with four or more coats of topcoat.
Suitable for walls, ceilings, showers, tubs, floors.
Applied with trowel.
Good buildability (Up to 1⁄4 inch thick with multiple coats). Will
conceal subsurface imperfections.
Intermediate skill level.

The single most important factor in whether plaster or decorate paint will last in a van build is the substrate or sub-surface preparation. Heat and moisture, not vibration, are going to be the worst enemy of the longevity of plaster. It’s inevitable that any wood used will expand and contract with internal climate change. Movement over large surface areas is insignificant and won’t change the appearance of the plaster. However, seams where two pieces of wood meet and end grain are high-risk zones. If plaster is applied over a loose piece of wood or an unfortified seam where two pieces meet, it will almost certainly crack. Likewise, end grain loves to swell and shrink with temperature change, producing issues, especially with more rigid plasters like Concretta. The solution I’ve found is to bond seams with fiberglass and mesh, as explained in the earlier section, Concealing seams & wood filling, and coat the end grain of wood with epoxy before applying the plasters.

ELECTRICAL

Electrical is usually the most daunting element of a van build to those unfamiliar with building. Have no fear—electrical is one of the simpler aspects of van building, and once you know the basics, there’s nothing to worry about. The electrical system in a van is not like that in conventional housing—it’s largely lower voltage and self-sustaining. It includes a battery bank to store power, charging sources, safety mechanisms, and loads. For a thorough off- grid electrical education, please browse FarOutRide’s blog, Explorist.life, or William Prowse’s DIY Solar YouTube channel.

Unless you’re building a top-of-the-line van with exorbitant power requirements, there’s no need to buy the most high-end products on the market

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FLIPPING FREEDOM like Victron. Assembling a functional electrical system for a van can easily cost upwards of $10,000 if you don’t know where to restrain yourself. Following my

guidance, it should cost under half of that.

Auxiliary Battery Bank

Almost every main component in your electrical system can be purchased on Amazon or through a specialty online supplier like Current Connected. Small components like terminals and fuses are best purchased in-person at hardware or automotive stores, or through reputable online suppliers for safety purposes.

Main Components

Battery bank: The role of the battery bank is to accumulate energy from the charging sources, store it, and then release it to the loads when needed. There are two types of batteries that you could feasibly install in a van: AGM and lithium-ion. AGMs are a budget-friendly option but are inferior for several reasons. For one, they’re extremely heavy compared to lithium, and they last for only a fraction of the lifespan of lithium (around three years or so). Furthermore, you can only use 50 percent of the capacity of your AGM battery bank, meaning if you let the batteries drop below 50 percent charge, they will become damaged, and the lifespan will begin to shorten.

On the other hand, lithium batteries are incredibly lightweight and can last up to ten years. They can also be discharged to 0 percent and not be negatively impacted. For this reason, 200 amp hours of lithium is effectively twice as much as 200 amp hours of AGM.

I have used both battery types in the past, but nowadays, there’s no doubt about it: lithium is the way to go. SOK makes a great, cost-effective 200-ah battery for around $650. In my experience, 200Ah of lithium is enough for any moderate van build. For extra cushion, 400Ah is a good “Sweet Spot” amount, and 600 Ah is more than enough. If you are building a top-of-the-line van, you should reevaluate your battery capacity and size it to specific needs.

Inverter: Since the primary power supply in a van is 12V, an inverter is used to convert to 120V for traditional outlets. Inverters come in pure sine wave and

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modified sine wave versions—pure sine waves are more efficient and worth

spending the extra money on. 2000W is well suited for most needs—anything higher is typically overkill.

120V distribution panel: Inverters are usually protected with an internal breaker, but extra protection never hurts. Therefore, the 120V loads should run to a 120V distribution panel protected with breakers and then to the inverter. Blue Sea Systems makes a great one.

Solar

There are three ways to charge the battery bank in a van’s battery setup: Solar panels, which harvest energy from the sun; smart isolator or DC-DC charger, which channels energy from the alternator; and a shore power converter, which converts 120V from a household extension cord to 12V power.

Solar panels: Having solar panels on a camper van is non-negotiable. There are two different types of solar panels: polycrystalline and monocrystalline. Monocrystalline panels are better to use in almost all 12V electrical systems because they are more efficient, which is critical when space is at a premium. 400 watts of monocrystalline solar panels is sufficient to charge a 200-amp hour battery bank, when paired with other charging mechanisms. The brand does not matter; just look for panels that fit your desired dimensions.

Charge controller: Solar panels require a charge controller to convert the energy to a usable voltage and prevent overcharging. There are two types of charge controllers: MPPT and PWM. MPPT is more efficient and worth spending more on. Ensure the amperage is rated high enough for the wattage of the solar panels.

Installation hardware: To install the solar, you will need MC4 connectors, a cable entry housing, and about 20 feet of 8 AWG wire to hook them up. You will also need to mount the solar panels. I don’t recommend mounting directly through the roof—it’s a shame to put holes in the van when you don’t need to. Instead, mount them on a roof rack with Z brackets. Nowadays, I would also recommend buying a low-cost roof rack to save time and headache, but on an extreme budget, you can rig up your own with square aluminum tubing, nylon

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add-ons.

Additional Charging Mechanisms

Alternator Charging: Incorporating alternator charging via a smart isolator or DC-DC charger is another non-negotiable. When the engine is running and the starter battery voltage exceeds a minimum voltage, this mechanism directs the excess current from the alternator to the rear battery bank to charge it. The charging only occurs when the engine is running to prevent drainage of the starter battery. Some products pair this alternator charging device with the solar charge controller, for an affordable, optimized solution.

Shore power: Another mechanism to charge a battery bank is a shore power converter. This device takes 120V current from an extension cord and converts it to 12V to charge 12V batteries. This can be a great bonus, but I’ve never bothered to add one of these into a build. It’s not in tune with the roaming nature of vans—it’s more popular with RVs that will be parked in campgrounds for long periods of time.

12V Loads and Fusing

Fuse blocks/bus bars: 12V positive wires from the loads will be fixed directly to a fuse block and negative wires to a bus bar. I opt for a fuse block and bus bar in one for simplicity and space-saving purposes—again, my go-to for this is Blue Sea Systems. You will also need two large 250-amp 4 post bus bars (both negative and positive) to affix larger wires to within the battery bank.

Fuses and breakers: The entire system should be protected by inline fuses and breakers, automatic devices that stop the flow of unusually high currents in an electric circuit. The fuses or breakers should be installed in between nearly every single major component and must be rated according to amperage. Safety is not an area to skimp out—stay away from the red-colored, unbranded breakers; they’re junk and will cause issues down the road. T-Tocas is a reliable, mid-grade brand.

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Switches, Wiring, and Connections

Switches: There are three main switch types I use in a van: dimmable, on/off, and timer. Use dimmable switches for 12V lights and on/off switches for the water pump, gray tank valve, and non-dimmable lights, all rated for proper amperage. Install a timer for the 120V electric water heater to prevent battery drain—if the user forgets to turn the switch off, it will stop automatically at a set time.

Main on/off switch: Also, make sure to buy at least one 12V kill switch to install in the electrical compartment so that the system can be shut down or restarted when needed. Again, Blue Sea Systems makes a great one.

Battery monitor: The buyer will also need a way to monitor their voltage, and for this, you can use an inline D.C. voltage power meter with a 100-amp shunt— digital display. This is not only a selling point but also a useful tool to mitigate problems down the road.

Wiring: All wiring in a van must be properly sized, stranded, and preferably Marine Grade. Wire size is measured in AWG—the lower the number, the larger the wire. You’ll need at least a couple hundred feet between 12, 14, and 16 AWG. These are the most common sizes and are best purchased in spools. Other sizes can be purchased in lower quantities at specific lengths. All 120V outlets should use 12/3 Marine grade stranded wire. Some hardwired appliances may demand 10/3, so be cautious.

Load connections: To connect the system, you’ll need an assortment of wire terminals, Wago clips, crimps, heat shrink crimps, heat shrink, zip ties, and cable clamps. I recommend buying each of these in bulk assortments. Again, it’s best to purchase wire terminals and crimps in person or from a reputable supplier to ensure the metal is thick. Tinned copper is the most reliable and worth the added expense.

Here’s an example breakdown of the components needed to create a basic off- grid electrical system for your camper with 200 Ah of lithium batteries, a 2000- watt pure sine wave inverter, and 400 watts of solar while keeping the costs as low as possible without sacrificing quality:

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Category

Lithium batteries Inverter

Solar panels
Charge controller and alternator charging

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Product Price

SOK 200 Ah 12V LiFePO4 $650 lithium batteries
Renogy 2000W 12V Pure Sine $300 Wave Inverter

2 x 200W Renogy solar panels $360 Renogy 50 A Charge Controller $280 with MPPT

Fuses, Breakers, and Protection

200 A ANL fuse and holder T Tocas 250 A 12V breaker T Tocas 2oo A 12V breaker T Tocas 60 A 12V breaker
T Tocas 60 A 12V breaker
T Tocas 50 A 12V inline fuse

$300

Fuse blocks, Bus Bars, Switches

Battery disconnect switch
2 x 4-post 250 A bus bars
Blue Sea Systems fuse block/bus bar combo
Blue Sea 120V distribution panel

$310

Wiring, Terminals, and Cable Management

Wiring of various sizes Terminal assortment Cable clamps
MC4 connectors

Zip ties

$200

Battery Monitoring System

Miscellaneous Total Cost

Renogy 500A Battery with Shunt
Mounting, fasteners, etc.

Monitor $80

$100 $2,580

This example setup would cover all your basic off-grid power needs with reliable components while being as cost-effective as possible. It includes 200Ah of energy storage, a 2000W inverter for A.C. power, solar charging, and alternator charging through the DC-DC charger.

Electrical Fixtures

Non-negotiable electrical appliances in a van are lights, a vent fan, a refrigerator, induction stove, and water heater. You may also choose to add a microwave or miniature convection oven.

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Lighting

Dimmable selections of both12V recessed puck lights and 12V strip lights are popular choices. Always consider the hue of light, and make sure it is consistent throughout the build—I’ve found “daylight” to be a great neutral between warm and cool. These can be purchased on Amazon—brand does not matter.

Ambient lighting: Use 12V puck lights when you need focused, direct lighting in specific. They provide targeted illumination, making them ideal for tasks that require brighter, more concentrated light. Strip lights can also be a great source of direct light, however, be aware that strip lights consist of a string of small, individual lights, which can look cheap when directly visible. For situations where the lights are in direct view, I prefer using ‘rope’ lights, as their built-in plastic casing diffuses the light for a cleaner, more polished look.

Indirect lighting: Strip lights excel at creating soft, indirect lighting when hidden, such as under toe kicks or for backlit elements, adding a subtle glow that enhances the ambiance of a space.

V entilation

The kings of vent fans are the Maxxfan Deluxe 7000K and 7500K—these are the same exact fan, but one is white, and the other is black. Be careful— Maxxfan makes several different specs below this one—avoid the other models. The 7000K and 7500K have a remote control with ten speeds and an electric open and close function.

Note: The Maxxfan won’t move air effectively without another source of airflow. For efficient ventilation, you’ll need either two Maxxfans, an opening skylight, or a window that opens.

Kitchen appliances

Refrigerator: Unlike household refrigerators that operate on 120V, van refrigerators run on 12V, making them much more efficient. The refrigerator can be the single most expensive component of your build, and many buyers recognize reputable brands, which signals a quality investment. Therefore,

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integrate, have more familiarity, and are overall more aesthetically pleasing.

Dometic has been my go-to brand, and I’ve often found great deals on their refrigerator through camping and boating websites. For capacity, I suggest a minimum of 65L, with 140L as the upper limit. Many of these refrigerators also come with built-in freezers.

Cooking appliances: I usually opt for an induction stove because it’s safer and much easier to install than propane, requiring only a 120V connection. The downside to an induction is that it draws high amounts of power, but this shouldn’t be an issue with my recommended electrical.

For a microwave, air fryer, toaster, convection oven, or all-in-one, choose whatever suits your style. The only requirement is that the wattage is lower than your max rating on the inverter.

Outlets

120V: When selecting 120V outlets for your build, consider the location and purpose of each outlet to ensure both safety and functionality. A key rule of thumb is to use GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) outlets in any area where you can reach the outlet while also reaching water. GFCI outlets help protect against electrical shock by quickly shutting off power if a ground fault is detected, making them essential for wet or damp environments.

12V: When selecting 12V outlets for your build, focus on the locations where you’ll frequently charge devices like iPhones, tablets, or other small electronics. 12V outlets are highly efficient for charging these devices because they draw directly from the van’s battery without needing to convert power from 120V, reducing energy loss. Since there are many design options available, from classic cigarette lighter-style outlets to sleek USB ports, choosing the right one often comes down to your aesthetic preference and the style of your interior.

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While the brand of plumbing components may not be a major selling point for most buyers, what truly matters is that the water flows smoothly and the system stays leak-free. The toughest part of plumbing is often figuring out which parts you need. To build a functional water system, you’ll need to piece together various fittings and pipes to create a continuous flow. This section will guide you through the key components of a van plumbing system, which, once you get the hang of, can feel like solving a fun puzzle.

Connections

Below are the different types of fitting connectors you’ll encounter after spending hours shopping for your plumbing system. I try to buy most in bulk on Amazon, but a couple of trips to Home Depot is inevitable.

Threaded Fittings

There are various types of threaded plumbing fittings used in a van build— NPT, BSP, G.H., flare, and compression fittings—each with ‘male’ and ‘female’ counterparts. The male fitting has threads on the outside, while the female, or receiving fitting, has threads on the inside. These fittings come in a range of sizes.

NPT (National Pipe Thread): Common in North America for plumbing, these threaded fittings are used with rigid pipes for faucets, water heaters, and more. Use Teflon tape or thread sealant for a leak-proof seal.
BSP (British Standard Thread): Similar to NPT but used in Europe. Not interchangeable with NPT, so be mindful if you’re working with imported components.
G.H. (Garden Hose): Often used for connecting water tanks or draining systems. It’s easy to attach/detach, making it great for freshwater tank fill-ups.

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Flare fittings: Typically found in gas systems but can appear in older water setups. They form a tight seal by flaring the pipe end and compressing it.
Compression fittings: Used with copper or plastic piping, these fittings seal by compressing a ring (ferrule) around the pipe. They work for both water and gas lines.
Nonthreaded Fittings

PEX fittings: PEX is flexible, freeze-resistant, and easy to use making it the standard for van plumbing. Crimp or expansion rings are used to connect pipes easily.
Barb fittings: Used with flexible piping, barb fittings connect hoses or tubing by slipping the pipe over the barbed end, secured with a clamp for a tight seal.
Slip fittings: Used with PVC or CPVC pipes and create a secure seal by gluing the pipe into the fitting. The fitting slides (or “slips”) onto the pipe, and the connection is made permanent with PVC cement. Used in van for drainage and low-pressure applications.
SharkBite fittings: Push-to-connect fittings that work with PEX, copper, and CPVC. No special tools needed, ideal for quick connections in tight spaces. SharkBite push fittings should not be used in a van, especially in areas that will be inaccessible because they’re more expensive and prone to leaking.
Tip (USA): When shopping for sink and shower fixtures, avoid BSP threads as much when possible because they can’t be purchased at most American hardware stores and will have to be converted to NPT. This is a headache- inducing process that must be solved with expensive specialty adapters purchased online.
Connecting Pipe to Pipe

• Elbows: Used to change the direction of piping; available in various angles (e.g., 90° or 45°) and compatible with PEX for flexibility and freeze resistance.

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Tees: Allow branching off from a main pipeline, connecting three sections of piping; ideal for creating parallel water lines.
Nipples: Short lengths of threaded pipe used to connect two fittings or pipes; effective for tight spaces and simple connections.
Couplings: Connect two sections of pipe of the same diameter; available in threaded or slip-on varieties for a secure joint.
Valves: Control water flow in the system; types include ball valves for quick shut-off and check valves to prevent backflow.
Adapters: Allow for the connection of different pipe types or sizes; essential for transitioning between materials like PVC and PEX.
Reducers: Connect pipes of different diameters, reducing the flow size between two pipes (Mostly used in van drainage systems).
Miscellaneous Components

Clamps: Secure hoses to barbed fittings or anchor pipes to surfaces. Come in both crimp clamp (for PEX) and screw clamp form (for flexible tubing).
Caps and plugs: Seal the ends of pipes; caps cover pipe openings while plugs fit into the pipe’s end, useful for terminating lines.
Gasket: A flat sealing component used between two surfaces to prevent leaks.
Teflon tape: A thin, white tape that wraps around the threads of pipe fittings to create a watertight seal.
Thread sealant: A thick, brush-on compound applied to the threads of pipes to create a durable, leak-proof seal.
Note: When completing your plumbing system, you’ll often need to transition between different fitting types and pipe sizes. For example, you might need to connect a 3⁄4 inch G.H. fitting to 1⁄4 inch PEX, requiring a combination fitting that bridges the gap between these two sizes. Thankfully, many of the fitting types mentioned—such as NPT, BSP, or compression fittings—are available in various combinations that allow you to seamlessly transition from one type or size to another. These combo fittings ensure a smooth connection between pipes and fittings, making it easier to build a cohesive and leak-free plumbing system in your van.

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Pipes & Hoses

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PEX Pipe

PEX is the standard choice for freshwater systems in vans due to its flexibility, durability, and ease of installation. It’s ideal for running water lines through tight spaces and around corners without needing many connectors—blue and red varieties indicate hot and cold. Buy in large rolls at Home Depot.

Flexible Braided

Flexible braided hoses are often used for drainage lines, connecting sinks, or shower drains to graywater tanks because they’re flexible, durable, and can handle the movement of the vehicle. Buy them at length at Home Depot or local hardware stores.

PVC

PVC pipes are typically used for sink drains because they’re rigid and easy to cut and assemble. They provide a straightforward and sturdy option for drainage from sinks, including the P-trap, which stops odor. This can be purchased at any hardware store.

Note: You may have to install an air admittance valve (AAV) after the P-trap. The AAV is crucial for proper ventilation, allowing air to enter the system, preventing pressure buildup, and ensuring smooth drainage without odors backing up into the van. After the P-trap and AAV, reduce the pipe to a 3⁄4 inch graywater line that directs wastewater to the graywater tank.

ABS

ABS is preferred for shower drains due to its strength and ability to withstand higher temperatures, making it suitable for hot water disposal. This can be purchased at any hardware store.

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ABBE MINOR Recap:

Freshwater pipes: 1⁄2 inch PEX
Water fill inlets: 3⁄4 to 1 1⁄2 inch flexible hose
Vent and overflow pipes: 1⁄2 inch PEX
Sink drain: 1 1⁄2 inch slip joint PVC P-trap,
Shower drain: ABS
Main Components
Water Heater
My go-to water heater is the Bosch Electric Mini-Tank Water Heater 4- Gallon. This option is relatively cheap, straightforward, and easy to plumb. It can be purchased on Amazon.
Water Circulation
For water pumps, Seaflo and Shurflow are two trustworthy name brands. 3.5 to 5 gallons per minute (GPM) is acceptable, so look for “self-priming” and make sure the pump is 12V. Buy whatever you find the best deal on. An accumulator should be placed in line with the pump to eliminate noise and save electricity. Seaflo and Shurflow are great options for one of these as well.
Water Filter
I would discourage anyone from drinking water straight from the van’s tap, as it’s been sitting in a holding tank. Instead, you can install a 3-stage water filter with a separate designated faucet. I recommend the 3-stage system over reverse osmosis because it is smaller, more affordable, and easier to install while also producing significantly less water waste. This setup ensures the user has access to clean, safe drinking water without the drawbacks of R.O. systems.

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Holding Tanks

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You will need two water tanks: freshwater (self-explanatory) and Graywater (to hold used water from the sink and shower). You will not need a black tank, as toilet waste is self-contained inside the toilet.

Freshwater Tank

I find the fresh tank to be best sized at around 30 to 40 gallons of holding capacity—bigger is often better; just consider cost and space. 28 gallons is the lowest I would go.

There are two types of fill inlets for the freshwater tank. With a gravity fill, you simply rest a hose inside the fill, and the water trickles downwards into the tank. With a city fill, the hose threads into the fill opening, creating a seal. Since a city fill requires a certain thread pattern, it is not as adaptable. For this reason, I prefer a gravity fill, but this may not be feasible unless there is a significant pitch downward to the water tank. In the best case, you install both types of fills.

Note: You can also install a water level monitor, which involves tapping into the tank and wiring a sensor. I typically do not do this, as I find it easier to monitor the tank manually, and most buyers don’t view it as a critical feature.

Graywater Tank

The gray tank can be as small as seven gallons, as it can be emptied as frequently as needed, but again, bigger is typically better. On that, you should install a motorized 1⁄2 inch ball valve for the drain—this will allow the user to open their gray tank whenever they’d like with the push of a button inside the van.

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Faucets

For faucets, showerheads, mixer valve, and valve handles, make choices based on aesthetics. These can be major statement pieces in a build, so take your time picking them out. Naturally, van plumbing fixtures see far less use than those in households, so the durability of parts is not as crucial. For this reason, I usually don’t bother with name brands. Off-brands can cost as little as 20 percent as much while achieving the same high-class look and similar quality. I also recommend adding a built-in soap dispenser to add a low-cost dose of luxury .

Sink

For the sink, something around 15 by 17 inches is usually an adequate size; just make sure it will fit the counter space and still allow at least 3 inches behind it for the faucet. I like to choose something with a sleek rim that can either be top or undermounted.

T oilet

It’s always worth adding a toilet to the build, as this is one of the main concerns of most buyers. The options are a cassette, dry flush, or a composting toilet. Cassette toilets feature a portable black water tank that separates from the seat for dumping purposes. Dry-flush seals the waste into a bag that can be discretely thrown into the trash. Composting toilets use a completely natural process of decomposition and evaporation free of harmful chemicals, turning solid waste into compost. The latter options cost four to five times as much as the first. I will tell you from my experience living in a van that I rarely use the toilet. With that said, it’s not worth it to spend excessive amounts of money here. Cassette will check the box.

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SOFT GOODS

Soft goods are a great way to add texture, dimension, and an overall heightened atmosphere inside your van. Pillows, blankets, and decorations are highly subjective based on design tastes and preferences. Other choices are straightforward.

Mattress

I usually use an 8-inch thick memory foam mattress purchased from Amazon for the mattress. These are affordable, easily cuttable, and lightweight.

Cushions

I usually use a 3-inch-thick dense foam. This thickness is also comfortable enough to double as a bed cushion where necessary.

Upholstery Foam and Fabric

Metal pillars: For the metal pillars inside the van, it’s best to use a stretchy fabric layered over 1/8 to 1⁄4 inch thick upholstery foam. Vinyl is an excellent option, as it allows for a snug fit without compromising on aesthetics. Pillars near the rear doors or over the slider door often feature intricate arches that demand a bit of flexibility; using a rigid fabric here can lead to unsightly wrinkles and detract from the overall look. Prioritizing stretch in your fabric choice will ensure a smooth, polished finish.

Cushion covers: When it comes to touches like cushion covers, you have the freedom to choose whatever suits your style. If sewing isn’t your forte, I highly recommend hiring a professional for this part. It’s a specialized skill, and if you end up with a subpar result, it’s one of those details that can really make or break the overall look of the build.

Window covers: I like to supply window covers with my builds, as potential buyers often ask if these are included. For an easy, affordable selling point, make these

FLIPPING FREEDOM

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ABBE MINOR
out of Reflectix insulation wrapped in a dark-colored fabric of your choice.

Stitch in neodymium magnets, allowing the window covers to stick to the metal rim around the windows.